Like Bhotias in Upper Mustang | RecentFusion.com

Kali Gandaki River has very low level of water in winter season.

By Rup Narayan Dhakal
I still remember those days of my childhood that some people used to come to my village to sell Jimmu, sewing needles, threads and black salt when the winter season began. They used to be felt different in terms of appearance and attiring than the people live in hilly region. They are actually from Nepal's Mountainous region and are called Bhotias (posse surnames Bista, Gurung and Biswakarma) who especially follow the Buddhism.

I was recently in one of the origins of them to feel natural, cultural and geographical wonders. The place was upper Mustang and its ancient village- Lomanthang. So, after doing a world famous Round Annapurna Trek and some other short treks, I was here in Upper Mustang to feel and enjoy the lively Tibetan culture, rocky terrain and awesome views of mountain ranges.

The journey started on the 6th of December from Pokhara and ended on 13th of that month in 2008. Before starting the trekking, I traveled in taxi, bus and jeep to arrive Kagbeni from where the Upper Mustang and its trekking begin. The first night-stay took place in Jomsom, the district headquarter of trans-Himalayan Mustang. First day I hiked to the terrain of Kaligandaki River where I searched some Saligrams, a kind of black stone is known as an incarnation of Hindu God Bishnu. On the way, I saw hordes of deer, dozens of alcoves pierced in the sandy wall of Kali Gandaki River which are believed to be the settlements of human ancestors.

From left: Narayan, Krishna, Ram Krishna and Ram at Titar

The taste of golden apple in Chussang village was unforgettably delicious and juicy. My friend Ram Gurung felt amazing when he saw the large fleshes of meat hanging in the kitchens of that village. He loves dried meat very much and I didn't miss it in my lunches and dinners. Journalists- Ram Krishna Gyawali, Prem Nepali, Krishna Mani Baral and Narayan Acharya also were in the team. Bishnu Gurung welcomed me in Tsaile saw my 2nd night. Similarly Tamagaon, Tsarang and Lomanthang were my other night-stays when I was ascending the course.

I could see no vegetation around the regions however a plant named Bhotia Pipal was extraordinarily in existence here. It is used as a house pillar and support of the rooftop in those areas. A kind of thorny plant that is gazed by yaks, sheep and mountain goats is also could be seen here. Food grains and roots like barley, buckwheat and potatoes are the main consuming stuffs in those areas.

Hanging meat fleshes and the Dhindo being cooked in the right

I faced chilly blow of wind most of the times and I had worn warm jacket, gloves and high-tech boots to save myself. Black glasses were helping me to face the whitely shining snowcapped mountains. I crossed icy streams and saw water taps changing into ice sticks while on the trekking. I used toilet papers instead of water in the rest room. I didn't wash my face in most of the mornings however brushed my teeth. I could be seen like a Bhotia due to my long beard, moustache and dusty clothes.

The night in Tamagaon remained very inconvenient due to the lack of warm bed and quilts. Without hot water and tea, the time-pass is hard here. Locally brewed liquor and flour porridge (dhindo) made my evenings easier. I took hundred of digital photographs, chitchatted with my friends and unfolded rough words when faced hard walking. Dusts and regular wind-blow are unavoidable things here. The elevation of our trekking areas was in the range of 3,700m and high altitude problem was not occurred on me.

Lomanthang was our major destination where I arrived on the 4th day of our trekking. It is the only living walled city of Nepal built in 1380 AD by the first King of Lo, Ame Pal. the wall is 2472 feet long and 26 feet high, 6 feet wide with huge wooden gate. At the time of the 1991 Nepal census, Lomanthang had a population of 876 people residing in 178 individual households. The last king of Lomanthang is Jigme Palbar Bista but the monarchy was scraped here along with the abolishment of central monarchy in Nepal.
Ram and me having Golden Apples in Chhusang.

The village is in the bordering area of Chhoser village touches the bordering areas of neighboring China. There are ancient gompas like Jhampa and Thupchen in Lomanthang. I also watched the miraculous five storied cave in the cliff of Chhoser village where I arrived riding the horse. It was my first experience on the horseback remained amazing. That area is also famous for ancient trade route and Khampa rebellion.

Agriculture, animal husbandry and seasonal migration to the cities and mid hills during the winters are the major trends of the villagers of Upper Mustang. Gradually tourism is becoming one of the sources of income. Ancient chhorten, mahne, prayer wheels, colorful prayer flags, firewood atop houses and dozens of caves are the other attractions of the area. Mustang and Upper Mustang are known as rain-shadow areas that have especially short houses with mud-built rooftops. Clear blue sky and sunny days are also good to feel there.

The organized trekking is better for the Upper Mustang trekking that needs minimum 10,000 Nepali rupees for a Nepali. Telephone and electricity facilities are available in most of the villages and the internet could be surfed only in Jomsom, district head quarter of Mustang, and Lomanthang. Foreign antinational who wishes to visit the Upper Mustang should pay USD 500 for 10 days to Nepal Government that opened the area to tourists in 1992. The whole Upper Mustang is falls in the Annapurna Conservation Area Project running under National Trust for Nature Conservation. Nepal Tourism Board helped us to trek to that area.

Children of Upper Mustang.

Mountain goats could be seen all over the Mustang.

Devotees of Upper Mustang back to home after performing pooja.

Bhotias basking the sun in Lomanthang.

Water about to ice being sipped by the horses.

Chhortens in Lomanthang.

2,500 years old Jhong Cave in the cliff of Chhoser.

Royal Palace in Lomanthang (L) and forefathers' settlements.

A tree of Bhotia people in Ghami. Pictures: Rup Narayan Dhakal

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